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19c Hang Bai
Atmosphere
For the hard of hearing who need a quieter corner or the sensitive spirits who find the traffic pouring past the street-side bia hoi too overwhelming, 19c Hang Bai is a good hide out. Tucked down a wee alley off Hang Bai street, the large warehouse-style interior has a lot of air, which means this place can get busy but not too noisy.
More long term Hanoi residents will be most interested to know this bia hoi is run by the family who used to run Viet Ha Bia Hoi at 26 Tong Dan (pictured) – may ye rest in peace - a.k.a. the Squid Bia Hoi, which was pulled down and turned into the Manequin Pis cafe bar circa 2005. Needless to say the bia hoi-crowd moved on. Who'd want to drink in a bar named after a small, scantily clad, urinating Belgian child? (That's a rhetorical question so keep your answers to yourself...)
Food and Drink
At Hang Bai the muc chien bo (flattened, battered squid served with lime, chilli and salt) that made the Tong Dan incarnation so famous is still available, though on recent visits they're fond of serving a rounder, fleshier, whole squid which is not nearly as ngon. The xiec lon (pork skewers) and bo luc lac (Stir fried chunks of beef and veg) are also recommended.
The service is top notch. Divided into clear sections the bia comes fast (and with a smile). More important it's always fresh and always cold. Ok, it is not the coldest bia in the city but has definitely been of a good consistent cold-temperature over my multiple visits. Clientele are also pretty cool. Lots of auld fellas and berets. Toilets are acceptable. Ladies may disagree but can't say. No manequins anyway.
Final Point
For lots of folk the quintessential Hanoi bia hoi is on the street-side, granted, but after driving through the traffic all day, I don't always want to look at it, or hear it, which is why, besides the good food, service and bia, I keep coming back here.
Posted by Teddy - Pittstop Works
